
Piercings are cute on some people, hot on others, NOT on others still, but I live and let live. I had my left nostril pierced several times in the ’90s, but various corporate handbooks dictated that I had to let those holes close. I’m more into tattooing, myself. Yeah, the Jew with the tattoos. Take that, Leviticus! Besides, while you can have as many tattoos as you’d like working in a kitchen, the National Restaurant Association and other food safety/hygiene powers that be say no jewelry (except for possibly a single wedding/engagement/promise ring) is permitted in the kitchen.
I am very careful to remove my lipstick, rings, earrings, and watch to prepare for job interviews that might require demonstrations of my cooking skills in a professional kitchen.
My first “stage.” The word is snootily–and yet correctly–pronounced “stahjzh” by a pretentious type who must have forgotten that we are indeed in A-murr-ica, in the Pacific Northwest, and far from Paris or even Montreal, where it would be entirely appropriate. I’m not sure how I feel about this whole staging thing. It’s a short-term cooking/prepping gig, for which you don’t get paid, and during which you are watched like a hawk by someone who may or may not know their job especially well, and who may or may not have even the slightest semblance of social skills. From what I understand of the food business, restaurants do stages all the time; most of them simply and honestly for job placement, while some seem to have constant stages to get free labor, usually of the mass-food-prep variety.
I’m a candidate for a job making pizza at a trendy Italian place in Southeast Portland. If I do well in my stage, I may get an actual job that’ll pay. My hair is off my face with the aid of a scarf and a headband, and pulled into a neat ponytail. I remove my rings and wipe off my lipstick. I’m set. I arrive with only a minute to spare, but I leave my apprehension in my roommate’s car, which I borrowed to get here; they cannot smell my fear. Besides, I have a “good luck” text message on my phone in my knife kit. I will do fine, I tell myself.
Joe #1 is scrappy but clean, about 5’7″, and wearing skate shorts, a T-shirt, Vans, and an apron. He has a beard, like most guys of a certain age in Portland. He has nickel-size holes in his ears, but they are plugged snugly with black discs. He shows me around the kitchen, which is busy and loud and full of industrious and happy white people who use words like “nebulous” correctly and laugh. Maybe I would fit in here. But everyone is Caucasian besides the Mexican dishwasher, which kinda weirds me out. I snicker internally when I hear someone pronounce the toast/tomato appetizer bruschetta as “brush-etta” and not “broo-sketta,” which is actually the correct Italian pronunciation. (Hey, they opened themselves up to such criticism when they called this a “stahjzh.” It’s just everybody seems to mispronounce that menu item, and it irritates the living shit out of me.)
A cute boyish lesbian with a tiny diamond stud in her right nostril extends her hand and introduces herself, and I feel a surge of sisterly hope. Apparently we are waiting for Joe #2 to arrive for his shift–he’s the pizza cook I’ll be working with and trying to impress, which could be tough since the ad for this job said “pizzaiolo.” Fucking fancy. It’s just round flatbread, really. I’m just a cook.
I am ripping about my 200th stem off a fresh basil leaf when Joe #2 arrives.
Aside from the dual nostril piercings, the septum piercing, the lip piercing, the tongue piercing, the wide-gauge lobe-plug thingies, and the numerous tattoos, Joe #2 looks nerdy and bookish. He is wearing a wedding ring, but I still catch him staring at my chest. (Please, please, please let this work to my advantage, God! This is still a sexist business, and I’m not above flirting my way in so I can prove myself anything BUT a “typical female” once I’m on the clock.)
“So, where’d you work in town before?” he asks. He has heavy eyelids and needs a shave. Jeezus, they are actually playing Morrissey in this kitchen. I want to break out my dour British falsetto, but I restrain myself.
I tell him I’m new to Portland, most recently from Orlando, Florida, but I’ve lived all over, and make sure to throw New York into my reply; that often impresses cooks, especially pizza cooks, er, pizzaiolos? Pizzaioli? You know what I mean. I tell him I haven’t worked at all in Portland, but that I externed in a high-end Tuscan restaurant at a luxury hotel in Orlando and made many pizzas with ingredients such as prosciutto and truffle oil and fresh mozzarella. I tell him I just finished culinary school.
“Well,” he says with a tone that suggests he would be scratching his balls were we not in a professional situation, “I never went to school for it. But I’ve been making pizzas my whole life!”
“You Italian?” I ask.
“Nah, Irish.” I examine his wedding ring more closely, and it’s a claddagh ring.
Joe #2 then shows me how they stretch out the dough here, with no rolling pin like I’m used to, then takes a sip of water from a cup–without the health-department-required lid and straw–that sits on a counter in open view. He glances over as I am reading the menu to familiarize myself with the house-specialty pizzas. He throws the dough about three feet above his head, which the chef who trained me back in Florida says is unnecessary and for show-offs only. Joe #2 preps his pizza. They don’t use a special-blend pizza sauce here; they use only a high-quality Italian-import tomato sauce, which is simply strained tomatoes: no salt, garlic, pepper, basil, rosemary, oregano. They use very little cheese. He shoves the uncooked pie into the wood-burning oven with a pizza peel, and the whole thing cooks in about one minute. It looks charred to me, but I think that’s how it’s supposed to look here. There are throngs of Portland gay cuties in the dining room, one of whom bears a striking resemblance to John Cameron Mitchell, the director of Hedwig and the Angry Inch. Joe #2 has never heard of the movie when I mention this possible sighting. He very matter-of-factly places the pizza on a plate, then asks me to dress it with arugula tossed in lemon oil. Only he pronounces it “ah-roo-gew-luh,” and it’s supposed to be pronounced “ah-roo-guh-luh.”
Joe #2 lets me make a “staff pie.” I use very little sauce and cheese, as I was instructed. I push that peel into the 900-degree oven and pray. It looks nearly identical to the Margherita Joe #2 made earlier. Turns out I was supposed to be impressing Tall, Quiet Boss Man, and I didn’t need to worry about Joe #2 so much. TQBM takes a slice and looks nonplussed. Why are all these emotionless, non-Italian, non-New Yorkers, not-even-Chicagoans or San Franciscans judging my pizza?
“Really good pie,” says TQBM, “but a little too much cheese.” He is obviously gay and obviously unimpressed by my bosoms. I try a slice after he walks away. It would be much better with garlic and salt and pepper and a touch of oregano. But I’m not Italian. Not Irish even. What do I know?
I don’t think I’m going to get the job. I have no idea. I know how to pronounce things correctly though. I wish my vocabulary could pay the rent.
I think I need to get my septum pierced.